And now, a musical/cultural interlude:
In a country still pocked with scars from its half-decade experience under a particularly brutal form of Communism, the Palace of the People remains the most fantastical and the most visible. Over the 20 years since political and economic transitions began to rock Eastern Europe, the structure has transformed into something of a pop icon in Romania: a reminder that kitsch is universal, a beckoning, forbidden Neverland in the heart of the capital.
Today, each new batch of tourists shuffling gape-mouthed through the cavernous pastiche of rooms hears the same story. Did you know? On his first visit to Romania, the King of Pop stood on the balcony of the hulking edifice, facing a throng of adoring fans, and greeted them with the shout of … “Hello, Budapest!”
Like many stories about Michael Jackson, this one is as believable as it is unverifiable. Some tour guides insist on its veracity, while others dismiss it as a myth. (Romanians like to point out that they got their revenge when Lenny Kravitz offended Hungarians with the opposite mistake.) True or not, this much-repeated tale reveals as much about a national inferiority complex as it does the Western cultural forces that were unleashed after the fall of the Iron Curtain: Young people here adored him, even if, like many Americans, he probably couldn’t place Romania on a map.
Contrary to what many eulogists have claimed in the past week, it wasn’t all downhill from Thriller. Michael Jackson reached the very height of international fame with his 1991 album Dangerous, released less than a month before the fall of the Soviet Union and more popular in many countries – and for a longer time – than it was in the United States.
This was particularly true in Eastern Europe, where for decades access to popular media was tightly controlled. Much has been written about how Michael Jackson’s crossover appeal chipped away at the racial wall dividing American musical tastes. Likewise, the Berlin Wall symbolized a barrier that kept Western music, movies, and ideas out of public view in the Communist space – even as jeans-clad listeners furtively tuned in to Radio Free Europe to hear songs and the latest news. Thanks to this balkanization of culture, for example, almost no one in the United States has heard of Willis Conover, the beloved radio host whose nightly jazz broadcasts on Voice of America fed the musical appetites and imaginations of millions behind the Iron Curtain.
The first cracks became visible when Jackson appeared on Soviet television in 1988 – in that famous Pepsi commercial, of all things. And when the dam finally broke, American artists found a voracious audience waiting for them among the former captive nations. Jackson was the first to venture east. In 1992, as Romania still foundered under a Gorbachev-approved government of former Party apparatchiks, his visit stirred a European response the likes of which Americans hadn’t witnessed since Ronald Reagan visited Berlin five years earlier. At a sold-out concert before over 70,000 people, he sang about healing the world as teenage Romanian girls in the audience screamed hysterically and tore at their hair.
When HBO broadcast the Bucharest performance, it became the channel’s most-watched special. Now that the curtain has fallen on Michael Jackson for the last time, television reruns are familiarizing a new generation of Romanians with the spectacle, a throwback to a disruptive post-1989 period that many of them barely remember.
The impromptu shrines to Jackson at American embassies across the region and the nonstop public eulogies are a testament to a popularity that never really faded the way it did back home. They also hark back to a time when Europeans could unabashedly wave American flags in support of a shared cultural alliance, like they did at Jackson’s Bucharest visit, Reagan’s Berlin Wall speech – and more recently, Barack Obama’s tours through the continent. (Russia excepted, where Michael is probably still more popular.)
Yes, to many Americans, there’s something infectious about seeing throngs of foreigners swooning to the sweet words (or sounds) of a Yankee superstar. Call it a post-World War II phenomenon, a messiah complex, a delusion – but on some level, and at some point in time, it fed a mutual desire. Just ask Michael: After all, in his late period it was the King of Pop erecting literal monuments to himself, just as much a symbol of his need to be adored as of his lasting cultural imprint abroad.
In Eastern Europe people have developed, quite understandably, an automatic suspicion of wildly popular figures in general and wily leaders in particular, especially the kind who insist on memorializing themselves. The spectacle of this Western pop figure with millions of adoring fans, though, always managed to steer clear of those defense mechanisms. Maybe it was his consummate shyness out of the spotlight, his almost childlike naivete and vulnerability, that sent the right signal to his fans: He was the exact opposite of a brutal strongman, an ambassador of nothing more than peace and goodwill.
His legacy, of cultural ties that permeate even the sturdiest of walls, was one that no repressive regime could tear down.